
I find that a setting of 3 works well, so I leave it at that. Change any of these and your depth of field changes as well.

There are too many variables at play for depth of field - the lens, focal length, distance to subject, and aperture. I am often asked if each FD can be translated into a quantifiable depth of field. The greater the focus differential setting, the more the focusing element in the lens moves between shots.
#Helicon focus tutorial iso#

Many of these images were also shot in vertical orientation and with the camera tilted down at about a 45-degree angle. If you run Helicon Remote and connect your camera to your computer, the application can automatically adjust your cameras focus and take the images you need to.

For many of the images in this article the front lens element was about 6 inches away from the foreground subject. I opt to use focus bracketing/stacking when the foreground lacks larger points of interest and I want to accentuate the details of smaller foreground subjects like ice crystals, sea shells, small rocks, leaves, flowers, etc. Here is a breakdown of how I go about using this feature. Although the scene may be substantially different from one location to another, the method by which I use focus bracketing/stacking remains fairly consistent.
